After three years of procrastination, exasperation and frustration, my cookbook is finally under way.
Ever since the Purple Parrot Café opened 14 years ago, I have been asked consistently, “When are you going to do a cookbook?” I finally have an answer to that question: September.
Early on I didn’t even plan to write a cookbook. After the subject was broached often enough, I began to consider it. Three years ago, I decided to do it.

I am now collaborating with watercolorist Wyatt Waters on a coffee-table-style cookbook with 150 contemporary seasonal Southern recipes, past columns, short essays and 30 to 35 of Wyatt’s paintings. If we are to make our September release date, we have to finish all work by Feb 28. Consequently, I have smothered myself in recipe conversion and writing while Wyatt has stopped taking commissions until the book is finished.
This morning Wyatt and I met with Richard Ward of Hattiesburg. Richard is one of my work-ethic mentors and heroes. He and his twin brother, Ed, opened a Frostop restaurant in Hattiesburg in 1957. The Ward twins had the most incredible work ethic, dedication and stamina I have ever seen. They worked seven days a week, 52 weeks a year for the first 15 years their restaurant was open. That is an amazing achievement, worthy of repeating … seven days a week, 52 weeks a year for 15 years!
In the early 1980s Richard and his brother began opening Ward’s restaurants all across the South. At 73, Richard still works in his restaurants every day (although he now takes Sundays off).

I wanted Wyatt to do a painting of the giant mug of root beer that used to revolve on top of the Hattiesburg Frostop. I loved that mug. After the Ward brothers sold the Frostop, they took the mug off of the roof and mothballed it at Richard’s farm.
The 8-foot faded, but still-frosty root beer mug now lies on its side in a stand of small pines, anchored in a good layer of thicket and briars. Wyatt thought it would be a good idea to capture the mug in its current setting as a testimonial of days gone by and of times forgotten. Slower times and simpler days, days when a chili cheeseburger and fries could make your week.
The three of us drove out to the farm. The morning light was perfect, so we left Wyatt and his easel alone in the cool of the Lamar County morning to work his magic.

While standing in the woods looking at this slightly-rusting icon of my youth, I was taken back to the days of the old Frostop. It was the newest concept in the restaurant business at the time. It had no carhops, which is something the Ward brothers were told wouldn’t work in Hattiesburg. They instead offered walk-up, counter-style service. The interior was covered with thousands of clean, sparkling ceramic tiles and, of course, the exterior sported that giant foaming mug of icy root beer lazily revolving on the roof.
For the first 17 years of my life the Frostop was my favorite restaurant. I ate there almost every day after kindergarten. I used to skip high school science classes and eat a Lot-O-Burger and fries with my friend Danny Miller. It would be hard to find anyone who lived in Hattiesburg between 1957 and 1980 who hadn’t eaten a meal at the Frostop.
The Frostop offered homemade root beer tapped from wooden barrels and orange drinks displayed in those big glass-domed fountain dispensers that sprayed the orange liquid into the top of the dome. I always opted for the orange soda. The Frostop also had a great jukebox. I am a big fan of jukeboxes. Even to this day if we are in a restaurant or diner with a jukebox, I have to play a song or two – or seven.
The Frostop’s parent company was located in New Orleans. In its heyday, Mississippi was home to a number of Frostops. They were hawking chili dogs from Bay St. Louis to Greenville and all points in between. There were two in Jackson. The mug from the U.S. 80 Frostop rides in Mal’s St. Paddy’s Day Parade every year.

Today Richard told me I could have the mug from the Hattiesburg store. I am fired up. If I rigged it to the roof of my house and plugged it in, do you think my wife would notice?
Local diners and jukeboxes are two of the things in life one should never pass up. Thanks to the Ward brothers, we never had to.


Purple Parrot Café Blue Cheese Dressing

1 3/4 cups Hellmann’s mayonnaise
4 ounces blue cheese crumbles
1/4 cup sour cream
1/2 cup Half & Half
1/2 teaspoon paprika
2 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 teaspoon granulated garlic
1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4 teaspoon white pepper

Blend first four ingredients with a wire whisk. Blend thoroughly. Add remaining ingredients and mix well. Makes 3 1/2 cups.